John Emde fabricated a new motor mount that allows the motor to be "slid" forwardsĪnd backwards. The frame was completely stripped, then sandblasted and finally powder coated metallic red with a clear coat ($400). Purchased from HOBI International ($320). 160, 6-Volt sealed batteries (in case I needed some "spares") were Since the Etek turns 72 RPM per volt, various gearing combinations were purchased in order to maximize the various uses of the kart ($50). (and the programming module ($175).) This controller was chosen as it works well with the B&S motor, and because it provides George bought a Briggs & Stratton Etek motor ($325) and a Sevcon Millipaq 4QD controller ($350). The rear axle was bent and also needed to be replaced Over the 3+ years the Go Kart sat neglected, the body pieces had disappeared. The Go Kart sat around for a couple years as all the members of NetGain played with the big brother - Bad Amplitude.Īt the urging of his son (Hunter - then 12 years old) George began the project of rebuilding the Go Kart ($350). The Go Kart saw regular duty until a com bar lifted and fried the
He also created a charging harness to charge the parallel 96 Volt strings from a regular 12 Volt charger.
George Hamstra rewired the Go Kart (several times) and added "reverse". These are images of the 1.0 version 96 Volt version of the Go Kart (2 parallel strings of 96 Volts).
Karl Klien provided 18, 12 Volt batteries and Karl Klien also added body components. The motor was rated at 3/4 HP and 1850 RPM's and used the originalĬhain and gears. He then installed an on/off switch and a contactor. John Spooner used his metal working skills to fabricate two battery boxes and added an adapter plate for a 96 Volt electric motor. We started with an old Enduro Go Kart frame and removed the original Yamaha internal combustion engine. This project initially started out as a feasibility project which led to the development of the Bad Amplitude battery powered dragster.